Destination Iowa for Trophy Bucks

Prior to the late 1980’s nonresidents weren’t allowed to hunt deer in Iowa because the herd was in a state of rebuilding. By the late 80’s it was deemed large enough to support limited nonresident hunting pressure. A conservative harvest policy - including buck-only hunting for residents in some areas - permitted the numbers to continue to grow until the early 90’s when it was easily the best in the Midwest.

I was hunting all the Midwest states every year during that time frame and none of them – not even Illinois – could beat Iowa for a combination of reasonable access and huntable numbers of mature bucks. Iowa’s many bird hunters hadn’t yet responded to the growing opportunity for whitetails and what deer hunters there were placed little emphasis on buck hunting. Most Iowa hunters of that day were satisfied just to shoot a deer. Therefore, many either-sex tags were being filled with does instead of young bucks.

Compared to most places in North America, Iowa was a dreamland awash with a sea of monster antlers. There is a man in Iowa who makes a hobby of tracking down every big buck killed in the state, presumably with the intent of buying them cheap. I talked with Bill regularly during the early 90’s. I remember a few years there when he told me more than 50 Boone & Crockett class bucks had been killed in the state that year (including those never officially scored). One year I think he estimated the total at 70! That’s the same number of B & C bucks that have been taken in Tennessee, Florida, South Carolina, North Carolina and Alabama combined for the whole of history!

Now you are starting to get some idea of just how good Iowa was at its best. It’s been said that a B & C whitetail is one-in-a-million. In Iowa during the early 90’s it was more like one in 2,000. That’s about as good as it gets south of the Canadian border.

The vast majority of the gun hunting in Iowa is done with medium sized parties engaged in deer drives. If you are not part of one of these groups, it can be hard to find a place to gun hunt that is not driven.

Pressure from farmers, the Farm Bureau and insurance companies caused the Iowa Department of Natural Resources (IDNR) to liberalize the antlerless harvest in the mid-90’s to bring the numbers down in some key areas. And combined with a growing focus on shooting bucks, the numbers of trophy deer has stabilized at a level somewhat below what was enjoyed during the heyday. It may not be as good as it once was, but it is still pretty darn good. And the state’s current management plan is geared toward keeping it that way.

I spoke with Richard Bishop, then the Iowa Department of Natural Resources Wildlife Bureau Chief, about the management strategy behind Iowa’s trophy deer hunting. “We recognized back in the early 80’s that most of our hunters were not interested in trophy bucks,” Bishop said. “They simply wanted to shoot deer. The late Lee Gladfelter was the deer biologist at the time and we decided that the best way to satisfy everyone was to keep the deer numbers fairly high so that there was enough does to permit an aggressive any-sex harvest.

“What we found was an interesting benefit. With the healthy deer numbers, Iowa was also producing lots of bucks. This led to a situation where even after every hunter that wanted a buck had shot one there were still many left over to grow a year older. Without making it a specific priority we put into affect a statewide trophy buck program.

“From that framework we have tried to maintain the trophy quality of our buck herd by focusing on keeping a large enough number of does that the overall herd could sustain the pressure we are putting on it each year without the buck numbers falling off. Even now, with today’s greater emphasis on buck hunting, we still harvest less than half of our antlered bucks every year. That leaves plenty of bucks to grow older.”

I grew up in Iowa and have lived there and hunted there on and off my entire life. While I grew up hunting pheasants and ducks (the deer numbers were still low when I was a boy) I was an opportunist like everyone else and jumped on the deer bandwagon once it started gaining momentum. I’ve hunted several parts of the state for deer and I still feel that, aside from maybe certain parts of Kansas and Texas and a few isolated pockets in the western plains of Wyoming, Montana, Idaho and Colorado, Iowa remains among the best places to tag a trophy buck in the United States.

Finding Iowa’s Deer Hunting Opportunities

If you want to try hunting Iowa here is some basic information to get you started.

Licenses:

The odds for a nonresident to draw an either sex tag have been roughly 50% to almost 100 % in most units and a bit lower in the most popular areas. Bonus points are given to hunters not successful in the draw so everyone will draw the tag at least every other year – at least in theory. License fees have gone up again to $550 the highest of any midwestern state. It was a move that has sparked plenty of controversy and no small amount of anger from neighboring states. For more information about license quotas and deadlines call the Iowa Department of Natural Resources at (515) 281-5918.

Where to hunt:

You can literally find a big buck anywhere in Iowa. However, the eastern, western and southern two tiers of counties generally have the best cover. That means the terrain is rugged or there would be corn growing in these places instead of antlered angus. I wouldn’t get too caught up in Iowa’s most famous counties. I’ve hunted most of them, but one of the main reasons the numbers are so good is because hunter numbers are high and more bucks get killed. Sure, the northeast counties, the southeast counties and the Loess Hills in the west central part of the state get most of the acclaim, but southwest Iowa is a real sleeper as are several of the river and even creek drainages throughout central and east central Iowa.

The farther you get from the “hotspots” the better your chances for gaining permission to hunt. Besides, some of these more open areas also have excellent pheasant hunting affording the opportunity for a combo hunt if go during the bow season.

Iowa’s outfitting industry is still young and trying to find its feet. The nonresident draw is the biggest reason mom and pop outfitting has failed to gain any consistency in Iowa. Because they are assured of only a 33% draw rate (roughly) they must book three times as many people as they can handle – especially if they cater to bowhunters. It takes time and effort to sell that many hunts. But there are also a few long-term businesses that have been operating for nearly a decade. For a listing of Iowa outfitters contact the Iowa Guide and Outfitters Association at (570) 876-4086, www.iowaoutfitters.org.

Public Areas for Iowa Deer

Several dozen B & C caliber bucks are shot in Iowa each year. In fact, in one season more B & C bucks are shot in Iowa than in most other states throughout their entire history.

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The opportunity to shoot a giant deer exists in Iowa. Most of the deer are shot during the firearms seasons.

Southeast Iowa

Southeast Iowa has a good density of deer throughout the region. Van Buren, Lee and Des Moines counties annually rank among the state's top trophy producers. While not light by any means, southeast Iowa's level of hunting pressure still affords some quality hunting opportunities.

Shimek State Forest

Shimek State Forest lies primarily in a single block in western Lee County, with an additional 900 acre unit in central Van Buren County, near Keosauqua. A total of nearly 8,000 acres of deer hunting ground make Shimek one of the state's largest public deer hunting areas. The terrain in Lee County is composed of steeply rolling wooded hills bordering the Des Moines River.

I've got a friend from Waterloo who looks forward to his annual one week bowhunting trip to Shimek Forest like a child awaiting Christmas. We were the only two people in the room, but he still whispered when he told me how good the hunting can be. I'd better not tell you which part of the giant block of timber is his favorite, or I'll call too much attention to it, and my friend will become an ex-friend!

The Donnellson and Lick Creek Units are the most remote, and therefore, receive the least pressure. Iowa's bowhunters are spoiled. Most aren't willing to walk long distances over rough terrain to tag a buck. For those willing to make the sacrifice, the remote interior portions of Shimek promise uncrowded hunting.

Since the area is primarily big timber, travel funnels caused by variations in the terrain are your best hunting pattern. During the first three weeks of November, (peak rut) look for bucks traveling through saddles, along side-hill travel routes, as well as using trails which detour around steep ditches and ravines. Rub lines are always good places to start looking for a big-woods buck. Total deer numbers are good and trophy potential is average for Iowa (which, by the way, is very good compared to the rest of the country).

When hunting this area plan on staying at the Shimek Forest Campground. For more information call (319) 878-3811. For a little more comfort look for a motel in Donnellson or Farmington.

Indian Creek Wildlife Area and Shimek/Keosauqua Unit

Indian Creek Wildlife Area and Shimek/Keosauqua Unithave more open habitat than what is found in the main body of Shimek. This area also borders the Des Moines River, but encompasses more edge cover. Look for classic cropland deer funnels such as overgrown fence lines and bottlenecks of cover. A total or nearly 5,600 acres of habitat exist in this area, 3,900 of which is open to hunting.

Modern camping, cabin and lodge rental are available at the Lacey-Keosauqua State Park which adjoins the public hunting area. Call (319) 293-3502.

Stephens State Forest and Rathbun Reservoir

The better areas of south-central Iowa are composed of a mix of rolling woodland interspersed with pasture and agricultural fields. Deer hunting pressure increases the closer you get to a metropolitan area, so it stands to reason that the proximity of this area to Des Moines creates a bit more bowhunting traffic. However, the areas I've selected are expansive. If you can't get away from other hunters here, you can't do it anywhere.

Stephens State Forest

Stephens State Forest is broken up into several medium-sized blocks and spread across Lucas, Monroe, Davis and Appanoose counties. I've spent some time scouting many of these blocks, and even the smaller ones have ample buck sign to fire up any bowhunter. However, I'll stick with the largest blocks which are located in Lucas and Monroe counties.

The White Breast and Lucas Units, southwest of Lucas, comprise just under 3,500 acres of big timber. Roads provide fairly good access to the outer fringes of the area, but a one mile walk is required to get to the heart of the White Breast Unit. As with Shimek Forest, big woods deer movement patterns prevail.

The Thousand Acre, Cedar Creek and Chariton Units are located in the northeast corner of Lucas and northwest corner of Monroe counties. These three units combine for an additional 4,100 acres of deer habitat. Being more spread out and dissected by roads, access is better to every part of the timber. Though you will find some good hunting here, you should also expect to find a few more hunters, especially on weekends. The Cedar Creek Unit in particular has some rugged, trackless country. If you are trying to get away from the crowds you might wish to start here.

Primitive camping is available at the Lucas Unit. Call (515) 774-5632 for camping information. If you prefer the comfort of a motel, Chariton has several and is centrally located between both major sections of the state forest.

Rathbun Wildlife Area

Rathbun Wildlife Area is a huge block of public hunting land. Licensed from the U.S. Army Corp of Engineers, the Iowa Department of Natural Resources (IDNR) maintains 15,600 acres of public hunting land surrounding Rathbun Lake. This huge block of ground is found in southeastern Lucas, western Wayne and northwestern Appanoose counties. Road access is only fair in most areas, meaning that you'll have to hike over a mile, in some cases, just to get to the hunting. This isn't big woods country, but rather a mix of timber, marsh, grassy sloughs and willow thickets - all surrounded by agricultural fields. In other words, it's perfect habitat for deer.

From what I've seen, the deer numbers aren't extraordinarily high, but a huntable population exists here. Plan on spending a day driving around the area and talking to Corp and IDNR staff before focusing on a one or two square mile area. Deer movement will follow the seams in the cover. Anywhere there is structure you'll find a movement corridor. Trophy potential is fairly good. Once you find an area you like, don't be afraid to talk to a few private landowners in the area. Many will permit access to bowhunters. Centerville or Chariton are your best bets for finding accommodations.

Loess Hills State Forest and Wildlife Areas

Iowa's record book is filled with entries from Monona and Harrison counties. The rugged Loess Hills form the primary habitat for the fine trophy hunting that exists in this area. Being very difficult to hunt systematically, the terrain allows many bucks to escape hunters and grow old. In general, the land is composed of bald hog-back ridges covered with native prairie grasses. Thickly wooded ravines and brushy side-hills fall away to the fertile farm country below.

Though much of the best deer hunting is found on private land, two large public areas produce good action. In the future the IDNR plans to step up its land acquisition here.

Loess Hills Wildlife Area

Loess Hills Wildlife Area lies just a few miles west of Castana, in central Monona County, and encompasses over 3,700 acres of timber and prairie uplands. I've never hunted the area myself, but a knowledgeable friend of mine spends plenty of time here. He reports that the deer density is not high but the trophy potential is better than average. There is limited bowhunting pressure in the general area, due primarily to the fact that there are no major population centers nearby.

Loess Hills State Forest

Loess Hills State Forest (sometimes called the Pioneer State Forest) is broken up into scattered tracts lying in southern Monona County and northern Harrison County. All tolled, there are over 7,000 acres in the state forest. This is rugged country with limited bowhunting pressure. Trophy potential is good.

The best strategy for hunting "the Hills" is to focus on the terrain. Look for features that force deer to detour through bottlenecks. Steep slopes, deep ditches and sunken saddles all offer deer a traveling advantage and are perfect places to ambush a buck on the move. From those I've talked to who live, hunt or work in the Loess Hills, gaining access to hunt (especially to bowhunt) private land is not impossible. Try the public lands first, and then branch out from there if you don't find something you like.

The little town of Onawa is centrally located and serves as a good base of operations when hunting both the Loess Hills Wildlife Area and the state forest. There are very limited accommodations, but give the Midway Motel a try.

Red Rock and Saylorville Reservoirs

We've all heard of the urban deer explosion. Bucks are getting old and big by living practically within the shadows of Des Moines' skyline. Though you can't hunt within the city limits, you can do the next best thing. You can hunt a couple of great areas just outside.

Typical Iowa hunting ground has a mix of wooded slopes and agricultural fields. This mix of cover and food is ideal to produce giant deer.

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Special seasons offer the greatest opportunity for finding access and quality hunting for out of state hunters, but the draw is difficult to obtain a tag.

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Many think of Iowa as only flat farmland, but there are many rugged areas. In fact, all of the best public hunting land in the state looks like this – too rugged to plow!

Saylorville Wildlife Area

Saylorville Wildlife Area is contained in Boone, Dallas and Polk counties. There are a total of just under 11,000 acres of public hunting land included in this huge area, and if you live in Des Moines, its right at your doorstep. As with Rathbun Reservoir, much of the public area is upland cover with limited timber, but there is enough deer cover to support a fair herd. Adjacent to the public ground are wooded areas enclosed by state park boundaries, or within the corporate limit of Des Moines. These are off-limits to hunting and give the deer a sanctuary. Hunting near the line and waiting to pick off a big buck that ventures out during the November rut is an excellent strategy.

Red Rock Area

With the exception of the Mississippi River corridor, this is the state's largest public hunting area. Red Rock offers an unbelievable 25,500 acres of public hunting, controlled by the IDNR. According to Jim Zohrer, with the IDNR, Red Rock is loaded with deer. The trophy potential for this area is quite good, especially after several years of low water have permitted the growth of dense bottomland habitat. The area is characterized by a wide band of cover (two to three miles wide, in most cases) roughly paralleling more than a dozen miles of the Des Moines River.

There are very few roads crossing the river throughout this upper section. Of course, access is readily available along the perimeter, but the difficulty of getting to the interior translates into excellent opportunities for hard working bowhunters.

Northeast Iowa

With the amount of public hunting land available in northeast Iowa, the whole area has become a bowhunting destination. I'm going to focus on the largest blocks of state land, though some of the smaller areas also produce good action. In general, the deer numbers throughout the area are down from their peak in 1991, but still exist in huntable numbers.

The terrain throughout northeast Iowa is some of the most rugged in the state. Hunting pressure is relatively high near access points, but drops off rapidly once you put a high bluff or ridge between yourself and the parking area. In each area listed, you will be able to find isolation if that is your goal. Most areas have few, if any hunters during the middle of the week. Terrain-related deer travel patterns predominate, and trophy potential in all of these areas is fair to good.

Upper Mississippi River National Wildlife Refuge

Upper Mississippi River National Wildlife Refuge comprises 200,000 acres of bottomland timber, sloughs, backwaters and main channel located primarily in Allamakee and Clayton counties. I grew up duck hunting this area and can remember seeing only one bowhunter during the approximately 18 years I hunted it! Very few locals bowhunt the bottoms – I don’t know any that do, actually. The best spots require boat access, dramatically limiting hunting pressure. Your only problem is avoiding duck hunters. Look for funnels created by high ground between backwater sloughs. Overall, deer numbers are fair, but trophy potential can be good. Lansing has a motel and is a good place to stay when hunting the refuge.

Yellow River Forest

Yellow River Forest is made up of three blocks totaling nearly 7,900 acres of big timber interspersed with pockets of open upland cover. Though permission to hunt private land surrounding the forest is tough to come by, you might get the nod to cross it when seeking isolated portions of the forest. Yellow River has a campground, but the nearest motels are in Harper's Ferry and Waukon.

French Creek and Lansing Wildlife Areas

French Creek and Lansing Wildlife Areas add up to roughly 3,300 acres of deer habitat. Numbers and trophy potential are both average, but this is some of the prettiest country you'll ever hunt. The town of Lansing is a good base of operation when hunting these two areas.

Upper Iowa Accesses

Upper Iowa Accesses are located primarily in Winneshiek County and total just over 3,300 acres. This rugged country overlooks the scenic Upper Iowa River, and offers beautiful vistas. Decorah is the closest town with accommodations.

Sny Magill and Bloody Run Creek

Sny Magill and Bloody Run Creek in Clayton County offer a combined total of nearly 2,200 acres of rough ground and timber. There are spots where you can get away from other hunters, but these two areas have fairly good access. MacGregor is a quaint river town and offers the handiest motels.